From the category archives:

Faux Brick Questions

Problem With The Faux Brick Shadowing

by THAT Painter Lady on Sunday, May 10, 2009

Debra:

I’m having a problem with the faux brick shadowing.

I’ve watched the video numerous times and understand.

However, I don’t have textured walls and either I’m not using
enough water and it turns out dark all the way around or I
use too much and it dribbles.

What brush do you use and how wet does the
brush have to be? Also, in the video, was the grout still wet when you
did the shadowing?

Thanks.
Kathy

Hi Kathy,

Shadowing can be frustrating when your first learning. Once you learn the trick it will seem so easy… honest.

I use a natural bristle brush. It’s made with animal hair – not synthetic. Usually these are sold in the “artist” section of a craft store.

Wet the brush. Then blot it well on a towel.

then put just a tiny bit of the black on the tip end of the brush and this should create a good bleed out of the black to clear to make good shadows.

Hope this was helpful… let me know if you need more help.

debra

Another Questions About Creating Shadows To Make Your Faux Bricks Look Realistic

I ordered the painting faux bricks book and video a few weeks ago. I am painting a wall of bricks and am at the place where I need to put the shadow on the bricks.

My black “shadow” seems too dark, it doesn’t really fade out like it does in the video. (My walls are textured, but not heavily, so some spots they’re much more flat than others.) I’m using a bristle brush, pretty wet, then just tipped into the black paint. It is not being very easy to do and I’m afraid is going to look really bad… Any suggestions or tips to get that shadow to glide on like the video shows?

I admit… shadowing takes a bit of practice. It’s not hard – and with practice it comes naturally. That said – I know you want answers – And I have a suggestion for you:

The black seems harsh – it’s tempting to try and use gray instead. Don’t – gray will not have the impact. You need the black to make the bricks “pop” off the surface visually.

You have the right brush – because you used the included shopping list that I provided and wouldn’t “Think” of using something else to try and replicate the process. :)

And – because I can’t stand next to you and “show you the process” – you have to rely on the video where I show the exact technique.

Want to know the easy answer? I can visualize the problem (because I’ve done this so often)… and learned from my mistakes.

If you are having problems with the shadow fading out – from a black hard edge on one side – clear on the other side… you are still using too much paint.

In the video I show you how to “tip” the bristles of the brush. When I say “Tip” – I mean just a tiny (teeny-tiny) bit of paint right on the very tip of the bristles.

The thing with paint (especially black paint) is that a little goes a long way when you are working with the “details”. You can ALWAYS add more layers to the shadows… it’s much harder to remove a shadow that is too dark.

I “think” that you are using the right technique from you discription of the problem… you just need to lighten up on the paint.

I hope this helps….

Thanks for asking the great question… and remember to send me pictures of your new “Faux Brick” wall.

Debra Signature

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Faux Brick Breakouts With Secret Stencil

by THAT Painter Lady on Saturday, May 2, 2009

Hi Debra!

I am absolutely LOVING your video. My kitchen is turning out so beautiful. just like in your video. I’m amazed!

I do have a question about faux brick breakouts. I noticed in the video that you painted a dark brown? On the break out and only in a couple of small places.

Since my kitchen is so big I’m doing alot of brick breakouts. Some are quite big and my question is, how do I decide what part (if any) to paint that shadow into.

Everything else made sense but not that one.

In the video your double stencil of the newspaper doesn’t show up really well and so i’m having a hard time understanding why you only picked those 2 little places.

I understand that it is to look into the depth of the plaster…but why only those 2 little places?

Should I not paint the whole edge? And if not, how do i determine what to make stand out?

I appreciate all of your help!

Kat

Hey Kat…

I am so glad you are having fun with the video!

The breakouts can be of any size of course… but the part your talking about must be adjusted for the size.

In the video the breakouts are fairly small… so the “visible broken edges” are just as small in relationship.

If your doing a large breakout… then make “almost” one entire side of the breakout “visible”… leaving maybe just a few small spots on that one side without the “thicker broken edge” showing.

I do hope this helps… let me know how it goes.

debra

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Painting An Existing Interior Brick Wall

by THAT Painter Lady on Friday, May 1, 2009

I have an addition with one wall being the original “exterior” brick.

The previous owners painted it a very drab shade of grey.

I’m looking for creative ideas to let that wall accent the room.

Also, I understand there are some things to watch out for as I repaint this wall, regarding drips and such.

One idea my wife has is to use a paint from Home Depot called “River Rock” in a red brick color, and try to just paint the surface, leaving the existing grey to represent the grout.

Don’t know if we can pull that off.

Any help from anyone on this will be appreciated.

I went ahead and called Ralph Lauren Paints and asked them about their River Rock paint and if  it would be ok to use on brick. They said yes, but only if the existing brick was painted with water based paint and not oil.

If it was painted with oil, then you will need to prime it first.

If it was painted with latex, then you are good to go with the River Rock. I would use a mini roller and roll the paint onto the brick faces as opposed to dry brushing. A brush may leave brush strokes.

Be sure to read the instructions on the container as well.

Debra

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